Otters and dolphins are other regular sightings - unlike people, or at least not in their usual numbers. In the space of a week, I spy an osprey high in the trees over Loch Ness, a seal bobbing about in Roshven Bay, and a rare red squirrel darting across the road near the Moray Firth. The Scottish Highlands are full of encounters of a heartbeat-skipping kind. Seconds later, it's gone, leaping over the forest floor with mesmerising grace. It looks up when I stop, antlers velvety, black nose glistening. I am concentrating so hard on the road and the rain that I almost miss the stag. But what about the plumbing? Will the heating work? Is haggis really the standard fare? Lisa Johnson targets the new generation of the region's most sophisticated retreats. Nature reigns supreme in the Scottish Highlands - it's a place to stalk deer across rugged moors and comb the wild shores of steel-grey lochs.
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